Abbot Inui of the Kamigano Jinja demonstrating a Shinto purification ritual for the Japan Society’s 2011 Educators Study Tour
Following Abbot Inui’s model, I lifted a ladle of water flowing from a mountain stream and rinsed my mouth, not thinking about giardia or bacteria that I might have consumed… I hope that the kami (or spirits)—will protect me…
Teachers on the Japan Society 2011 Educators Study Tour visited the Kamigano Jinja (shrine), a World Heritage Site, in Kyoto. We walked under two Torii, gates marking the entrance to a shrine, and stood before two perfectly sculpted sand cones meant to purify. After these “stations” and the cleansing ritual at the temizusha described above, the Abbot led our group through a complex of halls for preparation of offerings and prayer as well as a viewing of the exterior of the haiden (main shrine).
With this visit, the teachers on the tour will be better equipped to help students understand Shinto as it relates to the world history, art history, and other curricula.
For more information about the Kamigano Shrine, you can visit the Kyoto University of Foreign Studies website at http://www.kyopro.kufs.ac.jp/dp/dp01.nsf/b7eb328e75d9627a49256feb00103b33/aed10899ee0baf5e492571b2002838f7!OpenDocument
Posted by Valerie Bove, St. John’s Prep School
Zen-Day at the Silver Pavilion
On our “free” day, Karin, Heather, and I ventured out in the rain for a day in nature after urban Osaka. The Number 5 bus took us from Kyoto Eki (Station), passing by the Museum of Modern Art, with at least one of us closing her eyes to avoid stopping. We got off at Nanzenji (a temple), walked past crafts stores, and peeked at the grounds and what looked like a 20th century neo-classical aqueduct in red brick.
With scant directions, we found the Tetsu Gaku No Michi (Philosopher’s Path), a 2K walk along a verdant canal bank. Rather than theory, we discussed the high and low points of student field trips. As we studied an enormous orange and white carp feeding among the weeds, we talked about the fish image in Chinese and Japanese arts and literature. Carved wooden signs in the shape of arrows led us in the right direction, and we found ourselves among dozens of cultural pilgrims walking up the hill to the Ginkakuji (a Zen temple also known as the Silver Pavilion). Stopping for green tea soft serve ice cream was a key part of our living in the moment and a preview of the cone at the pavilion. We talked about having students draw a map of the world from memory on the first and last day of school, and and then comparing…
The Ginkakuji, although paired with the Golden Pavilion, also in Kyoto, has a different atmosphere. The former has more Shinto elements as well as brilliant golden covering the pavilion’s exterior; the latter provides a more contemplative, peaceful environment with gardens of sand swirls (representing waves) and a sand cone (representing Mt. Fuji) in front of which one can meditate. Rocky paths reminded us that one must be present, in this case to avoid slipping, and workers carefully planting moss reminded us that these gardens are manicured by workers, not monks. A final vista of Kyoto and an “exit through the gift shop” brought us back to navigating the bus system and finding the way “home” to Kyoto.
“Zen-day”
Posted by Valerie Bove
St. John’s Prep
July 18, 2011
Kyoto is a city of the ancient and the modern living in perfect harmony. Over the past couple days we have witnessed customs that date over a thousand years while enjoying the most modern of conveniences. Kyoto shines as an example of Japan’s powerful dichotomy of the antiquated versus the contemporary.
First we saw the Fushimi Inari Shrine. The shrine comprises of thousands of torii erected by various people and groups for good financial luck. Gate after gate after gate presented itself in an endless trail up the mountain. Trudging up the mountain in the heat of summer was no easy task; but most of the group was able to enjoy the spoils of victory marked by an anticlimactic sign reading, “top of the mountain.”
After some cooling down we experienced the sites and sounds of the Gion Festival. The Gion Festival, as Rob explained, is based on an emperor trying to appease the Gods in a time of pestilence. The people of Japan were ordered to pray to the Yasuka Shrine and over time the festival has evolved into what it is today.
Thousands walked the blockaded streets of Kyoto to get a taste of some street food, see the men pulling the floats or to peruse through the gorgeous yukatas. Immersing in the culture by purchasing and dressing in a yukata was an unforgettable experience. The yukata, though beautiful, is not exactly weekend wear. As we were bound into the outfits we suddenly came to appreciate and understand the true beauty of the women still showcasing these elegant dresses that have been worn for generations. Our discomfort, though, was justified by the sea of patterns and smiling faces. Being a member of an elite crowd and remarkable event for a day made it truly worth it.
When I was a little girl I remember a children’s story my dad used to read to me before I went to sleep about an old man in a small town in Japan who felt a small earthquake and knew a giant wave might follow so he told his grandson to set fire to his own rice fields. The grandson thought his grandfather was crazy but he didn’t question his grandfather. When all of the villagers ran up the hill to put the fire out they were angry the old man had started the fire himself until a giant tsunami hit their village and they realized he had set fire to his field on purpose to save the villagers. I used to love this story and requested that my dad read it to my almost every night. One part that especially intrigued me was that the grandson did what his grandfather asked, even though it was crazy, without question. I knew that I would never do something like that, I always questioned everyone!
It turns out that our group visited the town where this children’s story took place and that it was based on a true story. In 1854 a massive tsunami hit the current town of Hirogawa, Wakayama, a town close to our home stay. Our group visited a museum there that not only discusses this story but also subsequent tsunamis in the area. Schools from the area use the museum to teach children about earthquake and tsunami preparedness.
When the museum explained the story of a Japanese businessman, Goryo Hamaguchi, who felt a small earthquake in 1854 and knew this meant there could be a possible giant wave that could hit his small town. Hamaguchi set fire to his own rice fields in the hills in order to make the 400 villagers climb up the hill to help put out the fire and he ended up saving the lives of hundreds of villagers. Later on he used his own money to create recovery projects for the town after the tsunami. As it turns out, a children’s story called The Wave later came out in the US that was based on a history of this event.
Visiting this museum and learning this history was an unexpected personal connection to my childhood and I felt delighted to make the connection. I still think that I probably would have questioned anyone asking me to burn their own rice fields without explaining why but for me, overall, the nicest part of this visit was hearing a story about the goodness of humanity that was able to come from such a tragic event, especially after everything that Japan has been going through since March 11.
Heather Fife
Professional Performing Arts High School
The teachers completed a very fruitful homestay in Kochi today, and are sure to post more details on this blog shortly!
While visiting various places in Kochi this morning, we heard there was a bit of an earthquake in Northeastern Japan. For any friends and family that might be concerned based on the headlines in the US papers, we were very far away and could not feel the quake. From early reports, it also seems that the quake created little damage in northern Japan, as well.
Teachers are looking forward to visiting Hiroshima tomorrow.
Robert Fish, Japan Society
What, you may wonder, is an “ear mound” or a “nose mound?”
As one approaches this memorial, or monument, it becomes clear that few people would stumble across this or find it even if looking for it. Hidden beneath the layers of soil and grass are the “trophies,” thousands of severed ears (or noses as some think) that samurai brought back from Hideyoshi’s disastrous invasion of Korea. Visiting a site like this, locked and off-limits, with only one sign in Japanese and Korean, begs questions of how we interpret and present historical events, especially of failed attempts or atrocities. Hideyoshi united Japan for the first time, which is recognized in texts and monuments, but how are his mistakes and their victims remembered? Here, this event is in a gated and covered tumulus in a corner of a neighborhood not shown on tourist maps. We discussed the not only the memorials and monuments as they functioned historically, but also how they function in contemporary life and in the context of a neighborhood.
Valerie Bove
St. John’s Prep
July 2011
Everyone is excited to travel to Kochi to begin the first homestay of the study tour today!
Robert Fish, Japan Society
For families back in the States, you may have seen that there was an earthquake in Wakayama Prefecture this evening. We are currently in Kyoto, and only felt a slight shake, so all of the teachers are fine. They had a great day visiting the Great Buddha in Nara, making their own calligraphy brush, and using a traditional indigo dyeing technique to create their own handkerchiefs. They should be adding some blog entries shortly!
They are looking forward to visiting their host families in Kochi tomorrow!
Robert Fish, Japan Society
